3月25日,代表全球近50個(gè)國(guó)家和地區(qū)的服裝制造商及其行業(yè)組織的國(guó)際服裝聯(lián)盟發(fā)布聲明,呼吁在面臨國(guó)際新冠疫情的危機(jī)時(shí)刻,全球服裝供應(yīng)鏈及利益相關(guān)各方應(yīng)保持團(tuán)結(jié)。
※新冠疫情對(duì)全球服裝供應(yīng)鏈造成了前所未有的沖擊和巨大的多米諾骨牌效應(yīng)。
※采購(gòu)商應(yīng)與供應(yīng)商鼎力合作,團(tuán)結(jié)一致,盡量減少疫情對(duì)供應(yīng)商的損害。
※如果將供應(yīng)鏈面臨的困難完全轉(zhuǎn)移到供應(yīng)鏈上游,買賣雙方的信任將被打破、很難修復(fù)。
※“負(fù)責(zé)任采購(gòu)”是領(lǐng)先品牌商和零售商的公開承諾,當(dāng)下的危機(jī)是對(duì)這些承諾最重要和公開的考驗(yàn)。
※多邊組織和各國(guó)政府應(yīng)迅速制定針對(duì)受到嚴(yán)重打擊的服裝業(yè)的支持計(jì)劃。
國(guó)際服裝聯(lián)盟成立于1976年,是一個(gè)全球性行業(yè)組織,總部位于荷蘭阿姆斯特丹。其會(huì)員包括近50個(gè)國(guó)家和地區(qū)的服裝制造商及其行業(yè)組織。中國(guó)紡織品進(jìn)出口商會(huì)曹甲昌會(huì)長(zhǎng)自2017年起任國(guó)際服裝聯(lián)盟副主席。
聲明全文如下:
IAF敦促服裝供應(yīng)鏈保持團(tuán)結(jié)
面對(duì)Covid-19 新冠疫情危機(jī),國(guó)際服裝聯(lián)盟(IAF)呼吁服裝供應(yīng)鏈及其利益相關(guān)者務(wù)必保持團(tuán)結(jié)一致。隨著全球各地不斷關(guān)店、取消訂單,整個(gè)供應(yīng)鏈都損失了收入,這難以避免。我們不能期望買家冒著破產(chǎn)或讓員工失業(yè)的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)來挽救供應(yīng)商。但是,共同尋求解決方案以減少對(duì)供應(yīng)商的破壞,不僅是迫切需要的,也是可行的。面對(duì)這場(chǎng)危機(jī),團(tuán)結(jié)意味著與行業(yè)成員合作,彌合工人的收入差距和企業(yè)的需求差距。IAF表示,如果我們的行動(dòng)只是依照盡可能將損失轉(zhuǎn)嫁到供應(yīng)鏈上游的目標(biāo),將引發(fā)信任裂痕。而當(dāng)我們擺脫危機(jī)時(shí),這種信任裂痕將很難修復(fù)。IAF秘書長(zhǎng)馬蒂斯?克里蒂(Matthijs Crietee)今天說:“現(xiàn)在做出的選擇將在以后接受審視!
Covid-19 新冠疫情危機(jī)對(duì)紡織服裝供應(yīng)鏈造成了前所未有的沖擊,觸發(fā)了收入損失的連鎖效應(yīng)。在德國(guó),3月前三周的線下時(shí)尚零售額與去年同期相比下降了42%。在孟加拉,過去幾天被取消的訂單價(jià)值已超過20億歐元。 IAF主要代表中小服裝品牌、服裝制造商及其協(xié)會(huì)以及全球近50個(gè)國(guó)家的行業(yè)供應(yīng)商,這表明IAF直接或間接地代表了成千上萬(wàn)家公司。服裝紡織業(yè)的供應(yīng)鏈?zhǔn)鞘澜缟献铋L(zhǎng)、分布最廣泛的,雇傭了數(shù)千萬(wàn)的工人。
Crietee說:“每家公司都必須決定:如果他們能以任何方式避免的話,他們不想跨越哪些底線購(gòu)買行為!盜AF認(rèn)為,現(xiàn)有的全球規(guī)范性框架可以幫助企業(yè)做出這些選擇,該框架以《聯(lián)合國(guó)企業(yè)與人權(quán)指導(dǎo)原則》為基礎(chǔ),又以O(shè)ECD的《盡職調(diào)查指南》為準(zhǔn)則,在實(shí)踐中指導(dǎo)服裝鞋業(yè)發(fā)展!霸谶^去的幾年中我們看到,主要品牌和零售商堅(jiān)定和公開承諾,在供應(yīng)鏈中實(shí)踐負(fù)責(zé)任購(gòu)買行為,遵守OECD《盡職調(diào)查指南》的建議。當(dāng)下形勢(shì)是對(duì)這些承諾最重要和公開的考驗(yàn)!
就當(dāng)前危機(jī)而言,供應(yīng)鏈團(tuán)結(jié)至關(guān)重要,但我們還不夠團(tuán)結(jié)。我們需要全世界團(tuán)結(jié)起來,需要政府和公民在財(cái)政上幫助數(shù)以千萬(wàn)的服裝制造工人。因此,除了呼吁行業(yè)加強(qiáng)供應(yīng)鏈團(tuán)結(jié)之外,IAF迫切希望相關(guān)多邊組織和各國(guó)政府的財(cái)政支持,請(qǐng)迅速制定全行業(yè)范圍的支持計(jì)劃,以幫助全球服裝紡織業(yè)最脆弱的環(huán)節(jié)。
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IAF URGES SOLIDARITY IN APPAREL SUPPLY CHAIN
In the face of the Covid-19/Corona crisis the International Apparel Federation (IAF) calls on the apparel supply chain and its stakeholders to enact sufficient supply chain solidarity. As stores close around the globe and orders stop, loss of income throughout the supply chain is unavoidable. No buyer can be expected to sacrifice its own existence or the jobs of its employees to save its suppliers. But collaboratively searching for ways to reduce the damage to suppliers is not only an urgent need, but feasible. Solidarity in the face of this crisis means collaborating with industry members to bridge the income gap for workers and the demand gap for business. Operating with the objective of moving as much of the pain upstream in the supply chain will create breaches of trust that will be difficult to repair when we emerge from this crisis, IAF stated. “Choices made now will be scrutinized later”, IAF secretary general Matthijs Crietee said today.
The Covid-19/Corona crisis is an unprecedented shock to this supply chain creating a dramatic domino effect of revenue losses. In Germany, offline fashion retail’s sales in the first three weeks of March dropped by 42% compared to the same period the year before, and in Bangladesh orders cancelled in the past few days already represent a value of over 2 billion euros. Representing predominantly small and medium sized apparel brands, apparel manufacturers and their associations, and global suppliers to the industry in nearly 50 countries, the IAF represents directly and indirectly hundreds of thousands of companies. The apparel and textile industries are made up of the world’s longest and most globally dispersed supply chains, employing tens of millions of workers in total.
“Each individual company will have to determine what line of buying behaviour it does not want to cross if it can in any way avoid it”, Crietee said. It is IAF’s view that the global normative framework that has become available in the form of the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights and translated into the practice of the apparel and footwear industries by the OECD’s Due Diligence Guidance can help make companies make these choices. “In the past few years, we have seen strong and public commitments from leading brands and retailers for responsible purchasing practices in the supply chain in line with recommendations from OECD due diligence guidance. This climate is the most important and public test of those commitments.”
Supply chain solidarity is crucial but not sufficient in the light of this crisis. International solidarity is needed from governments and citizens to help financially support the tens of millions of workers that make our clothing. So in addition to calling on the industry to enact supply chain solidarity, the IAF is urgently asking the appropriate multilateral organisations and the financial support of national governments to step in to quickly make an industry-wide support plan for the most vulnerable parts of the global apparel and textile industries.